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Showing posts with label green iguana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label green iguana. Show all posts

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Fifth Day at Otorongo Lodge ~ Dec. 26, 2010

12/26
I had hoped to be able to wander at will in the jungle behind the lodge, but the lodge owner, Anthony, is very aware of the ability of snakes to hide unseen next to the trail (and by now, I should be, too, although it's hard to watch every step you take when surrounded by the amazing things in this Amazon jungle!). He kindly but firmly discouraged me ~ exploring the clearing around the lodge was fine, but not melting into the jungle unaccompanied.

Sensing my disappointment, Anthony and Ivy personally accompanied Osmar and me through an area of Otorongo they're developing, diverting a creek to create ponds and trails, and creating a small hydroelectric dam for small-footprint-electricity. As we walked along with Anthony pointing out interesting mushrooms and plants and describing his plans, there was a crash directly behind us, and Osmar quickly pinned and caught a Giant Bird Snake whose branch had broken as it slipped through the canopy above in search of birds (okay, okay, I get the point ~ snakes are all around us!).

After getting some pictures of it then releasing it, we came across a gorgeous filareed mushroom. Anthony said that the lacy top part would grow and spread, finally reaching the ground like a hoop-skirt. I took a photo and planned to take another on the way back to the lodge to record its growth (hey, mushrooms grow fast). Delivering us to a good sketching spot, Anthony and Ivy returned to the lodge while Osmar and I set up to draw.

Much taken with the snail shells I'd been picking up as we hiked, I sat sketching their smooth spirals until a movement in the leaves caught my eye: a big millipede was crawling slowly toward me. Fortunately for my peace of mind, I decided it was the same species a guide had been handling near the giant ceiba tree a few days before, and millipedes are generally harmless, so I put my hand down for it to crawl into. It did. I googled it a little while ago, and it is apparently called a "tractor millipede" but that's the best I could do for identification. I had to sketch it coiled up because as soon as it would uncurl it would start to flow away ~ so I kept nudging it to keep it coiled until I was done. Its portrait ended up on the snail page, below.

Now, while Osmar drew a seedpod he had found, I moved my folding chair to the edge of a little swamp to sketch a tree decorated with a nasute termite nest. These termites build their mud nests in the trees, connected to the ground, where they forage, by hollow mud tubes through which they can pass safely hidden from predators. Look at the tube in the image at right ~ we broke through the roof of this tunnel on the side of a tree, but it would be repaired within the hour.

I had been planning to draw some jungle scenery, and this was the perfect time and place to do it. My pleine air (scenery done on site) sketching has been very limited, and this was a good opportunity to stretch my wings.

As I explained to Osmar, the success of a scene may depend in large part on what you leave out plus what you add in. Here are my scenes and the drawings I did of them.

I took some liberties, obviously ~ leaving out non-essential items and adding palm leaves and lianas from just outside the picture area. I still haven't painted them. Maybe I won't ~ I really like their spare look.....

Osmar, in the meantime, finished his seed with some advice from la profesora (me) and was busy sketching the same buttressed tree I was now drawing. It had been a cool, overcast morning (about 85°), but now it was thinking about sprinkling, so when our drawings were finished we started back down the trail watching for the lacy mushroom I wanted to photograph again. Alas, it was gone ~ eaten by some hungry passer-by. Foo.

Lunch was ready when we returned. On the table next to the kitchen, the staff had put out the racks of plates, glasses and utensils, and we came in just as the steaming serving bowl of soup and the slices of garlic bread, plus a plate of sliced buffalo cheese, were placed on the table. Filling my glass from the pitcher of pineapple juice fresh from the garden, I claimed a spot at the dining table and dug into my plate of good, simple food.

While I was at Otorongo, the number of guests fluctuated almost daily as people came for varying multiple-day stays. There were about five of us this day, plus three guides and Anthony at the table, sharing our morning's adventures with much laughter and joking. Suddenly there was a hail from outside the dining hall, and we abandoned lunch when we realized that one of the staff had caught an iguana for us to see. Brilliant green, with beady brown eyes, it endured our handling stoically as we took turns learning how to hold it so it wouldn't be frightened. At length, we released it, and it dashed across the lawn to the safety of the jungle, none the worse for wear.

I decided to do some birding and to explore the grounds a bit with my camera, putting off more sketching until later. I photographed a flowering vine in the yard with gorgeous pink flowers, and out in the palm orchard, Osmar showed me a wasp nest that looked almost exactly like a green fruit (see the image above). In the back yard was a fascinating tree with hanging fruits. There were wonders everywhere I looked, and I also spent some time playing with Tio Juan, the toucan.

I had figured out by now that the way to interact with Tio Juan was to first grab his bill. Then you could come in closer and play with him. If I kept my distance, his tendency was to peck at me. Holding his bill, I could slip a finger in his mouth and twiddle his eight-inch tongue ~ which looked like a long, skinny piece of plastic with a serrated edge. The toucan didn't seem to mind this exploration, and it was now that I discovered that his nostrils were situated on the TOP of his marvelous bill (check out the image close-up). I generally kept my hand on his beak so that he couldn't peck at my face (not necessarily with evil intent ~ but he IS a rascal).

It started to rain in earnest and continued for the rest of the afternoon, so I took a short siesta, then around 4pm, I fetched Osmar and we spent the rest of the daylight hours sketching and painting in the dining room ~ Osmar on his drawings, and I on mine.

His progress was astonishing, and it was a real pleasure to work with him as he learned. But we had a sense of urgency ~ I only had two more full days at Otorongo, and I wanted to leave him with his skills well enough developed that he could continue on his own. At the same time, I had no intention of shorting myself on doing every Amazonian activity I could cram into every day. So I started hatching out a plan. More about this later.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Hiking the Ridge Trail

4/26

5:15am
Well, now the workshop is finished but the fun isn’t over and I’m going to keep sketching, for sure! Last night the masked tree frogs invaded the pool, nine of them, about 3” long, tan and so fearless that we could approach and touch them. They have charming faces, friendly and a bit goggle-eyed. At first, as we sat by the pool with our margaritas and jugos (juices) and cervesas (beers), they’d let out an occasional “wank!” But during the night they came into full voice.

“Bwrawk! Barawk! Brock!” They’d sing awhile, lapse into silence, then sing another chorus -- all night long. After awhile we fell asleep to the raucous lullaby. This morning, clusters of eggs dotted the pool. I estimated a couple of thousand. We could barely see the gel surrounding the little black dot of a yolk The gardener dipped them into a tub and took them away to hatch elsewhere. The frogs left the pond before sunrise and are perched fearlessly on palm leaves by the pool, in plain sight with people passing by barely a meter away. When the frogs dry, they are slightly iridescent.

I managed to photograph a huge iguana through the spotting scope from the restaurant. I think I could really get into this! The lodge also has a box of skulls that have been found out in the forest over the years, and I want to sketch the oddest ones while I’m here. This is a pizote, the coati, long and skinny.

10:44am, 85degrees (I have a little thermometer on my keychain). Today I am tackling the Ridge Trail. It goes back to the head of the ravine to the south of the lodge, then out onto the next ridge to an overlook, then down a steep scramble to the beach. It is humid and the air is very still in the forest, and rather dark – I’ve been trying to photograph things like cicadas and anole lizards without a flash, but I’m having trouble holding the camera steady enough to get a picture. Next time I think I’ll bring a little tripod. Earlier, a troop of spider monkeys were eating from clumps of fruit above me, with most unmannerly insults shouted from full mouths. I had to dodge a branch that came crashing down. Did they do that on purpose?

Right now I’m sitting quietly on one side of a steep canyon trail. For about fifteen minutes I’ve been watching a pizote foraging along the opposite canyon wall about 50’ away. It has no idea I am watching it nose under roots, leaves and into crevices and crannies, snapping up insects, spiders, and other goodies. Earlier three pizotes spotted me and barked “Wuk! Wuk! Wuk!” in alarm then slipped away through the forest.

This part of the trail descends into the ravine at its very head, then turns around and starts up the other side. At the cul-e-sac I spotted an oval wasp nest looking a lot like a potato, hanging from a tiny tendril loop. Approaching closely, I stopped short when I saw little wasp faces peering out at me. No WAY am I getting any closer. Most of the wasps here are gentle and tolerant, but I’m not taking chances. About 30 feet away I lurched into another wasp nest hanging from the underside of a big leaf. THEY got mad, and gathered into fighting formation, so I quickly retreated (without incident).

It may rain – it’s thundering regularly. Hope I don’t get this journal wet! It’s so humid my glasses keep fogging up as I write, so it’s actually bathroom moist, and right here/now it is now 87 degrees. I keep smelling a skunk, maybe it’s some plant like skunk cabbage.

Oh my! I just almost ran into a palm tree with bands of 3-5” spines up and down the trunk! Very sharp and nasty. They surely protect this palm from climbing critters! (I just broke a spine off and am using it as a toothpick. Perfect.)

Noon: HAH! I made it to Buena Vista point and the view of the Pacific and the beaches below is terrific, although it's a bit overcast! I think I’ll lunch on my granola bar and cool down in the cool breeze off the ocean, then I’ll head back up the ridge since I took some loop routes and didn’t get to see all the trail. There’s so much to see.

Speaking of which…as I sit here munching I am seeing something seriously strange downslope about 40’ below the viewpoint. It’s a sphere about the size of an orange, maybe 3” in diameter, but creamy white and it has a fascinating design…..which I have finally realized is wasps clinging to the outside of the sphere. Okay, lunch is done, time to go see.

Well, it’s not a sphere as I thought from above—more a cream-colored disc, but the slope is so steep and crumbly there’s no way to get closer than about 6’ to inspect it. These may be wingless wasps, each about an inch long with black head and thorax and shiny cream-colored flattened abdomen.

The mass looks solid, but while the upper ring of wasps hangs onto the edge of the disc, I can't see what the ones beneath are grasping... There’s been almost no movement for the fifteen minutes I’ve been watching. Wait. I think maybe they have wings, but they’re smallish and pale, and held low. [Later: only by viewing a close-up of the photos I took am I able to see the wings: tan, and, as I finally surmised, held down alongside the abdomen.]

1:30pm I've headed back, and just came through a grove of "walking palms." They're called that because the trunk has multiple legs at the base, and it keeps sending down new roots on the sunniest side, allowing those on the darker side to die -- so it eventually "walks" to a more advantageous spot.

I've also seen more than one magnificent specimen of monkey-ladder vine along this ridge. The biggest one loops and twines around the trees (and itself) in intricate arabesques. It must be ancient, and it certainly gives a junglish character to this forest.



Monday, May 7, 2007

Howler Wakeup

April 20

5:24 am, El Remanso Wildlife Lodge, Osa Peninsula

The howler monkeys started roaring at 4:55am and are still going strong half an hour later. In addition to the “oooooaru, arooooo, rooooah!” are some “woof-woof-woof” calls, then more moaning roars. It is an extraordinary way to wake up.

I’m sitting in a basket chair on the tiled patio in front of our room in the increasing dawn light. The sun comes up every day about now, and sets around sixish pm, so we’ll have to get up with the monkeys to get the full benefit of the day. People go to bed around nine here, so we’ll still get our sleep!

A Tico (a friendly name for the Costa Rican people) is singing a Spanish song down in the kitchen, so I went down and fetched back a cup of delicious coffee. Ahhhh……. Birds are chattering in the tall trees overhead, and for a few minutes at about 5am the cicadas pulsed with a sound like those bamboo rain tubes, a high-pitched rattle of short bursts – breathtakingly lovely.

Yesterday we went down to the beach and tested our trail legs. The lodge is on a high ridge, with heavily forested ravines on each side and a steep trail down to a lovely, wild Pacific beach. Just out of the restaurant, we were met by a 30” iguana snoozing on the trail, then down near the beach we spooked a mama coati mundi, called pizote (pee-so’-tay) by Ticos, with four kittens. She galloped away with one in her mouth while the other kittens bumbled, clueless, after her.

We didn’t stay long on the beach – it was a very high tide, with the water almost up to the edge of the forest, and it was late in the afternoon, so after a short ramble in the sand and an inspection of hermit crabs taking shelter up the buttressed trunk of a forest giant, we headed back up to the lodge.

Going down took a bit more than fifteen minutes. Coming back took me closer to forty-five (Dan’s in better shape. He made it back up in less than half an hour). I didn’t mind returning slowly, though, because I got to see a lot of cool things: the trail overarched with blooming scarlet hibiscus flowers with frilly petals and fuzzy hanging tongues, brilliant blue and purple hummingbirds guarding them fiercely; a slim vine snake (harmless) crossing the trail then twining up a shrub to safety, and the leafcutter ants. I'm having trouble taking sharp photos in this dim light!

On the way back up the hill I collected a leathery tubular canopy flower to sketch, dropped from high above. I'm eager to start sketching -- I've turned my journal on its side and I'm writing on the left half and leaving the right half of each page empty for drawings. Since a page looks really bare without any pictures, that encourages me to keep sketching. I've also collected a little hatched bird's egg, and now I see a bug on a plant. Time to draw!

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