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Showing posts with label Chain of Craters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chain of Craters. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

My Hawaii Nature Journal ~ Day 4 ~ 12/21/2007


Bright and early on my fourth day I left Kulana Artist's Sanctuary and once more headed for the western side of the Island. But when I reached the Park entrance again I reentered on an impulse: I hadn't yet sketched that wonderful pahoehoe lava.... and wait! maybe I should check at the park gallery to see if they ever sponsor workshops....(one of the nice things about traveling alone, you can do whatever you want, when, why, wherefore....etc).

So I dressed warmly in jacket and fuzzy hat for the cold breeze (it's cold on the volcano in the early mornings, and the wind can be biting) I drove back down the Chain of Craters Road and sketched this gorgeous section of pahoehoe. If you've ever made a chocolate cake from scratch (or better yet, brownies before you add the nuts) then you have seen an edible version of pahoehoe. On the way I met a pair of gorgeous Kalij pheasants along the road -- aliens from India, but fascinating nevertheless.

This is the general area where the first Polynesians arrived, on the south end of The Big Island. I forgot to mention that yesterday I discovered some petroglyphs across the road from some specimens they encourage one to visit at Pu'u Loa Petroglyph Trail. It was nice finding my very own lava petroglyphs! There was red stain in one of them. I understand that ancient Hawai'ian parents chipped these holes in which they placed umbilical cords from their newborns. The circles shown here are about 8" across and are chipped about ¾" deep.

The pahoehoe picture shows an area about 10'x6.' That's one big cake batter....

Back onto the highway, the road went through scrubby uplands I'd never have associated with Hawai'i. I watched for nene geese, but didn't spot any, although I'm pretty sure I heard one ~ "HWAH-hwah-hwah!" ~ in the distance at one point.

I stopped several times within the next few downhill miles to strip off items of clothing. First the hat and jacket, then the fleece top, then the turtleneck and the fleece pants under my zip-off pant-legs, then the pant-legs themselves, until finally I was at Black Sand Beach in my t-shirt and shorts, in the warm, humid more-what-I-was-expecting Hawai'ian sunshine. And there, as I arrived, my turtle came.

That was wonderful.

When I was full of turtle and my sketchbook was satisfied, I returned to the highway and shortly took the South Point Road 8 miles down to the southernmost point of the island. I think from where I was standing, the next point of land was the South Pole.

The island ends in an abrupt bluff, and if you look down over the edge the water is perfectly clear and turquoise, and you can SEE the fish swimming in it. This was a favorite Hawai'ian fishing spot, but the currents were fierce, so they drilled holes into the lava edge of the bluff (you can see the holes in the picture) and tied their canoes to the shore so they wouldn't be swept away.

By the way, a note about these journal entries....you have undoubtedly noticed that they aren't perfect in terms of design, additions, etc. I decided that spontaneity and just DOING the journal was more important than creating a polished, finished product from the get-go. Sometimes I just sat down on the ground and sketched because an opportunity occurred, not taking time to figure out a beautiful design or layout. So wotcha see is wotcha get, and even if they aren't gorgeous, they're still fun, and within reach of us all with a bit of instruction and practice (that's what my workshops are all about!). BTW, the black patch on the turtle journal page is a little pile of the shiny black sand firmly battened down with clear package tape.

My day ended further up the highway, along the west side of The Big Island, at Shirley's house in Holualoa (ho-LOOuh-LOWuh). Shirley was one of my recent workshop students, and when I discovered she had a home in Hawai'i -- well things just took off from there! On arrival I found an enchanting house, with a bold neon-green welcoming gecko (it's a Gold Dust Day Gecko) waiting on the doorjamb, an absolutely perfect ending to my day full of adventures.

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

My Hawaii Nature Journal -- Day 3 -- 12/20/2007


Day Three was my Volcano Day. Mauna Loa, from whose loins springs Kilauea caldera and Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, was looming over all as I left Emma and Manny's house south of Hilo and started west. It wasn't a LARGE loom, just a persistent mound up which the road kept rising for thirty miles until it crested at the park entrance.

I wish I could have seen that caldera when Mark Twain saw it -- apparently it was quite hellish, red and roiling, gnashing its teeth, lacking only visible devils. Now it is quiet, black and hard, with some steam fumaroles and other vents around the perimeter belching miniscule white clouds.

Nevertheless, the drive around the rim and down the Chain of Craters Road revealed some superb vistas of both pahoehoe (puh-HOY-hoy (smooth and ropy) and a'a (ah! ah!)(sharp and cutty) lava.

There are several places you can stop along the road to see steaming vents. Shortly past the visitor center, a nicely fuming hole in the ground emits what may be pure water steam -- it has no scent I could detect. Around the west side and on the south edge, however, the vents are putting out much more noxious stuff. I hack-hacked for some time before getting smart and moving upwind. Duh. The photo with ferns, here, is looking down into the water steam vent, while barren earth surrounds the sulphurous vents (makes sense, huh?)

There are numerous flows of varying ages on the Chain of Craters road leading from the caldera down to the sea. It was a fascinating drive, with some really interesting lava deposits. One volcanic vent, about 6" across, was particularly compelling, being composed of red lava, while most of the other lava is black. The red makes it look H.O.T!


At 2:30 there was to be a nature walk at the Kipukapuaulu Bird Trail so I finished my caldera circuit in time to make that tour. There were over-arching tree ferns with furry bases, a huge hollow tree at whose base someone had left an offering tied up in leaves, and a ti plant, which is used for lots of things (like tying up offerings). More about ti plants later, and I'll put up the ti plant picture I took here when I do that.

I had taken a room for the night at Kulana Artist's Sanctuary near Volcano Village as I was hoping against hope that I could go back into the volcanic park after dark and see flowing lava, get the soles of my feet supernaturally hot by standing on a thin sheet of lava over a seething red lake of molten stone (okay, okay, that's a bit much, but I did really want to see flowing lava....).

But it turns out that the lava, which is currently flowing, is emerging in a roadless area. The closest visitors can get was some six miles distant. At the Visitor Center they SAID it would be a fabulous view of glowing red in the distance, but when it started to rain I opted to spend the night working on my journal and chatting with Cristina, who runs Kulana. All things considered, it was an excellent choice.

By the way, sometimes the journal page entries get slightly out of sequence when I need a place to write. The journal page with the caldera postacard glued to it has an entry written on December 21, after I left the volcanic park. Sorry 'bout that!

Here's a grab-bag of other entries...

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